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The Ultimate Western Road Trip

9/30/2015

 
PictureOur 18,000 mile route to 33 national parks.
6 months, 33 National Parks, 18000 miles, One Life-Changing Experience, and how you can do it too!

​For the first half of our year-long honeymoon, we spent 6 months visiting 33 national parks in 16 western states. Yes, we went to every western national park in the lower 48, which gets us more than half of the way to our long-term goal of seeing all 59. We put more than 18,000 miles on our car, hiked 25 marathons worth of distance on scores of trails, took countless photos, met many fascinating people, and so much more. And we did this for just $9000, including expenses for transportation, camping, food, gear, and everything else.

But how, we get asked again and again, was such a thing possible? Well, we spent the better part of a year planning, agonizing over the best routes and timing, creating a detailed budget, and saving up money. This was a life-changing experience, so I'm here to offer tips on what we learned and hopefully encourage more people to go out on epic National Parks road trips of their own! Probably the most important components of a trip like this are: planning your route, deciding when to go, and figuring out how much it will cost. So, without further ado, here's our review of all the parks we went to. Plus, scroll down for detailed info on how we planned the route, timing and budget.

PictureSunrise from Zabriskie Point in Death Valley.
Reviewing the Parks 

Here are our reviews of all of the national parks we went to, in the order we visited. Hopefully, this accumulation of info will be helpful to you as you plan your own epic parks roadtrip! Click through each link for our full review, recommendations on what to do (and not), plus lots of photos.

1. Pinnacles (CA) - The newest national park, just upgraded from a Monument to a Park in 2013, has some cool hikes and caves, as well as world-class rock climbing.

2. Death Valley (CA) - Perhaps the nation's best collection of oddities, Death Valley is home to the Racetrack, where rocks slowly coast along a flat dry lake bed, Badwater, the lowest point in the U.S., enormous sand dunes, and much more.

3. Joshua Tree (CA) - A surreal landscape that looks like it could come from a Dali painting, Joshua Tree has excellent climbing, hiking, beautiful oases and more, all within a couple hours of Los Angeles.

4. Grand Canyon (AZ) - One of the best known features of the American landscape, the GC needs little introduction. We enjoyed our hike down into the Canyon, but if you want to camp, be sure to get reservations and/or backpacking permits well in advance.

5. Petrified Forest (AZ) - A drive-through park with no camping and short trails, this little guy doesn't take long, but its forests of fallen petrified trees are among the best preserved and largest in the world.

6. Saguaro (AZ) - Split into two sections on either side of Tucson, AZ, Saguaro boasts a lovely desert landscape.

7. Guadalupe Mountains (TX) - Go to hike up Guadalupe Peak, the highest peak in Texas and a fairly easy day hike, or to do longer backpacks on the park's many trails.

PictureStalagmite in Carlsbad Caverns.
​8. Carslbad Caverns (NM) - What a strange and different place it is underground in Carlsbad Caverns. The free, self-guided Natural Entrance and Big Room tours are absolutely worth your trip. If you additionally have the time and means, check out the reservable tours as well.

9. Big Bend (TX) - One of the most remote parts of Texas and the nation, Big Bend features incredible dark night skies and great hiking in the Chisos mountains. Just don't worry about spending too much time over in Rio Grande Village, its not worth the extra drive.

10. Zion (UT) - Zion Canyon feels like an incredible escape in itself. Add in the iconic hikes to Angel's Landing, the Narrows, the Subway and more, and you have the superlative Zion National Park.

11. Great Basin (NV) - Occasionally labeled the forgotten national park, Great Basin is actually full of fun things to do, like going for a cave tour, watching a night sky program, or hiking Wheeler Peak.

PictureThe Amphitheater, Bryce Canyon NP.
​12. Bryce Canyon (UT) - Bryce Canyon's landscape feels surreal when viewed from above, but take a hike down among the hoodoos and red-rock slopes and you're in another world.

13. Capitol Reef (UT) - We were both nicely surprised by Capitol Reef. It's not Utah's best known park, but its got a lot going for it from plentiful pick-your-own fruit orchards to lots of nice trails to gorgeous sunsets.

14. Canyonlands (UT) - Much like it's Utah brethren, Canyonlands is a desert-canyon-rock dreamscape you have to see to believe. Camping is tricky here so be sure to plan ahead, but staying on the Island In The Sky is worth it, so we recommend making the effort.

PictureNavajo Arch in the afternoon sun, Arches NP.
​15. Arches (UT) - Arches is a gem of the park system. Wandering here and happening across any of the park's 2000+ natural arches feels like finding a prize. Don't miss the Devil's Garden hike, including the Primitive Trail - it was one of our absolute favorites. The popular hike to Delicate Arch is also great, often described as one of the best designed trails in the entire park system.

16. Mesa Verde (NM) - No other parks on this list boast archaeology of such cultural significance as Mesa Verde. With so many sites to choose from, it can be hard to decide what to do in Mesa Verde. We really enjoyed the Balcony House Tour, but Park Rangers can help you choose something that works for you.

17. Black Canyon of the Gunnison (CO) - It's fascinating to see thousands of years of the forces of nature at work on the walls of the Black Canyon, especially the Painted Wall. This is mostly a driving park, between many lookouts, unless you are up to a strenuous hike down to the bottom of the canyon (we weren't, but don't let that stop you).

18. Great Sand Dunes (CO) - Where else can you hike to alpine peaks and lakes, play in giant sand dunes, and float on a river's waves all in the same day? GSD has a lot to offer, especially for a park many people have never even heard of.

PictureDream Lake, Rocky Mountain NP.
​19. Rocky Mountain (CO) - The only downside to RMNP is its close proximity to metro areas of Boulder and Denver, meaning its often quite crowded. But the upsides are worth it: picturesque alpine lakes and mountains, lots of wildlife, and exceptional hiking, to name a few.

20. Wind Cave (SD) - Having been so recently to Carlsbad Caverns, we were pretty sure Wind Cave wouldn't match up, not least because WC charges you to take their tours while CC's main tours are free. So, yeah, we didn't go into the cave and don't have much to say here. 

21. Badlands (SD) - South Dakota's other park, however was a delightful time with its strange rock formations, plentiful mountains goats and bison, and the remote, but beautiful (and free) Sage Creek Campground.

22. Theodore Roosevelt (ND) - If you like horses, this is the place for you. Lots of trails designed for equestrians and lots of wild horses are what we found.

PictureKayakers, Lakeshore Geyser, Yellowstone.
​23. Yellowstone (WY) - An expansive area the size of Delaware and Rhode Island combined, Yellowstone has vast stretches of backcountry, teeming wildlife, enormous lakes, and rivers, and oh, a Super Volcano. It's hydrothermal features (geysers, hotsprings, etc.) would be enough to earn its keep, but add the rest and Yellowstone is something truly special. We were there for four weeks, so we wrote a lot about it. In addition to the link above, check out more on the Tower/Canyon area, Mammoth Hot Springs, and that time we stayed up all night to watch geyers going off under the stars, aka our all night geyser party.

24. Grand Teton (WY) - Just to the south of Yellowstone lies Grand Teton NP. With hikes like Cascade Canyon and Holly Lake, GT is a real treat. Also, we really enjoyed spending time lounging on the shore of Jackson Lake and using the wireless in Jackson Lodge's beautiful main room.

PictureMountain goat on Gunsight Pass, Glacier NP.
​25. Glacier (MT) - Glacier was one of our top two favorites. Take its category-best hiking. Or its accumulation of wildlife. Or its glaciers. Any one of these would be enough reason to visit Glacier. But it has all of them and more. If you can only visit one park next year, this should be it! And if you haven't been there already, you should visit soon, as the predictions suggest Glacier National Park will have no glaciers remaining by 2020.

26. North Cascades (WA) - Northeast of Seattle, right up against the Canadaian  border, lies North Cascades NP, an unsual park complex consisting of a national recreation area and two units of the national park. We didn't find much to see in the recreation area, but the national park was lovely, especially Cascade Pass.

PictureSunset, Shi Shi Beach, Olympic NP.
27. Olympic (WA) - If Glacier was one of our top two favorites, Olympic was the other. There is such an incredible variety of activities and awe-inspiring scenery. You can go to Olympic to explore its beautifully rugged coastline. Or long-distance trek to the glacier-capped peak of Mt. Olympus. Or delve into the temperate rain forests of the Hoh and Quinault Valleys. Backpacking to Shi Shi beach for sunset was one of our trip's top highlights. 

28. Mt. Rainier (WA) - Washington hits another homer with Mt. Rainier NP. Watching the sun rise on the mountain's eastern slope is almost spiritual, and the same came be said of the sunset from the western slope. Meanwhile, the hiking is stupendous on either side, with trails in the Paradise area and the Burroughs trail taking the proverbial cakes. If you're there in late summer, you get the added bonus of enjoying wild blueberries and huckleberries.

29. Crater Lake (OR) - Crater Lake is undeniably beautiful. Take a short hike (there are several options) along the rim and you'll see the bluest blue you can imagine. There's not much other hiking in Crater, unless you want to fork out the cash for a boat ride around the lake, and then you can hike on Wizard Island. You can also drive around the lake to a variety of lookouts.

PictureRedwoods, in Redwoods NP.
​30. Redwoods (CA) - Hang out with the world's tallest trees in Redwoods NP. The coastal redwoods here can soar to over 370 feet. This is especially true in Tall Trees Grove, within which grows Hyperion, the world's single tallest tree (though its exact location is undisclosed). You need a free permit to visit Tall Trees Grove, and its absolutely worth the small bit of time it takes to go to the visitor center to get one.

31. Lassen Volcanic (CA) - Lassen Volcanic feels a bit like a tiny Yellowstone, with its hydrothermal features at Bumpass Hell. But its also got some nice hiking, especially the day hike up Lassen Peak.

32. Yosemite (CA) - Yosemite is the High Sierras at their best. The hike up Half Dome is one of the best hikes in the world. But you've also got El Capitan here, a well-maintained and expansive backcountry, abundant waterfalls, and so much more. And all of this only a few hours from San Francisco. Yosemite should be a centerpiece to any parks road trip.

PictureHalf Dome, Yosemite NP.
​​33. Sequoia (CA) - We had to cut our trip to Sequoia and Kings Canyon NPs short due to a massive wildfire in the area, but hopefully you won't have the same problem. Both parks have groves of Giant Sequoias, the world's largest trees by volume. Kings has the Rae Lakes backpacking loop, one of the best backpacks available. And from these parks you can access Mt. Whitney, the tallest peak in the lower 48.

34. and 35. Between Olympic and Mt. Rainier, we actually flew to Hawaii to see the islands' two national parks, Haleakala and Hawaii Volcanoes, but those aren't discussed here in depth because, well, they're not exactly road-trip accessible.

Planning Your Trip
​Which Parks to Visit and for How Long?
​

​The first thing you need to do is figure out how much time you have for your trip. With that, you can decide how many parks to visit and how much time to spend at each. With unlimited time, you could visit all 59 parks and get to know each one of them incredibly well. 

But most people, including us, don't have unlimited time. We wanted to see as many parks as possible, while also getting the most bang for our buck. This meant, in short, limiting ourselves to the more closely packed parks of the West. On our trip, we determined our route so that the drives between parks could all be done in a reasonable day, and we only had one drive of more than 10 hours.

We took six months to see these 33 parks, described in detail below. At a chaotic rush, you could probably see them all in 3 months, but if you want to do the same route as we did, I'd recommend a minimum of 4 months to see them well and do the parks justice. Any less and there's a good chance you'll have trouble experiencing the parks in full and also run into seasonal issues described at right.
​When to Go?

Deciding when to go, of course, depends on which parks you want to visit. The parks in the northern mountains are partially closed down in the late fall through early summer. Similarly, the Southwest can be dangerously hot in the summer. In other words, if you only want to visit northern mountainous parks like Glacier, you should consider starting no earlier than June because the parks' main attractions aren't generally open earlier. 

​Our basic plan was to be in the Southwest in springtime, in the northern mountains in the early summer, and in the Northwest in the late summer. This worked out pretty well for the most part, though we got rained and snowed during an unusually wet and cold May for Colorado. Otherwise, the weather was largely agreeable and we rarely found trails still closed for the season or unopened sections of parks.
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Our tent after a snow storm in Great Sand Dunes in May.
​How much does this cost?

If you're like us, and you're road-tripping on a shoestring budget, you're looking to save money however possible. The good news is that long-term camping in the parks is pretty affordable. We ended up spending about $1500 per month all inclusive, which is less than we spent on rent/utilities alone in our old DC apartment. By far, our major expenses were food, campsite fees, and gas, in that order. We also spent money on activities, car insurance and maintenance (we needed four oil changes in those six months!), gear, and other random things.

You can determine a basic gas budget if you know your car's average gas mileage, the average price of gas, and how far you plan on driving. To get this latter figure, find the total distance between the parks you want to see (Google Maps is helpful for this), and then basically double that mileage to get a decent estimate of the total you'll drive in and around the parks.

For campsite fees, we budgeted on an average of $12 per night for campground reservations. In retrospect, this was probably a little low. $15 per night is a better bet. And we predominantly stayed in the cheaper campgrounds that NPS itself runs... the concessioner run campgrounds are more expensive, more crowded, and generally not as social, though they tend to have more services like showers and laundry. NPS also has detailed information on costs of every campground on its website.

OK, those are all the basics of where we went and how we planned out 6-month, 18,000-mile road trip. We hope this info will be helpful to you!

​And definitely feel free to ask any questions you have in the comments.
​All photos copyrighted by the Author.

The Largest Tree

9/26/2015

 
By: Ryan 

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks were to be the last stops on our road trip. Sadly, due to the Rough Fire, Kings Canyon had been evacuated, so we could not even set foot in the park, but we did still spend some time in Sequoia.

Sequoia is home to the world's largest tree by volume, General Sherman, so of course that was on the top of our to-do list. We had also wanted to do some more hiking, but the Rough Fire foiled those plans again, as the air quality was rated as unhealthy for strenuous activity in most part of the park. So we kept our time in Sequoia short and did the quick hike to the big tree early on before the smoke picked up. This also meant that we got some quiet time in the grove of Giant Sequoias before the tour buses started arriving. 

General Sherman is not nearly the tallest tree in the world. That's Hyperion at 379 feet in Redwoods NP, where we were just a few weeks ago. It's also not the oldest in the world. That's a 5000 year old bristlecone pine in Inyo National Forest that we haven't seen yet, so we'll just have to put it on our list. Still, at 275 feet tall, 103 feet circumference at the base, and more than 2300 years old, General Sherman is a sight to behold. Even it's largest branch, at nearly 7 feet in diameter (wider than most trees at their base) is impressive.

​So we spent a while taking photos and appreciating the grandeur of GS before retreating from the effects of the fire and heading back for home. And just like that our six months on the road visiting national parks came to a close! Stay tuned for more on overall thoughts and lessons learned later.
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For scale, see the man in the green shirt in the lower left.
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Cristina doing tree pose in a to-scale outline of General Sherman at its base.

New Heights in Yosemite

9/22/2015

 
By: Cristina 

Growing up on the West Coast meant a lot of things, including trips to Yosemite. This holds true for both Ryan and myself, although Ryan has frequented this park more, and more recently. I had not been to Yosemite in about 20 years, and I have to admit that, while I was excited to come back to here I was unsure that it would measure up to the likes of Glacier and Olympic. I was so wrong! Yosemite National Park is the High Sierras at their best (minus a certain alpine lake named Tahoe, but that's a different story). The dramatic yet iconic scenery found here tells a visual tale of this region's glacial and volcanic past, and we set out to discover as much as possible in our week-long stay! 
Yosemite has over 750 miles of trails so hiking is a must! During our stay, we hiked both in the front and backcountry, and were treated to sublime landscapes, sweeping views, and hauntingly beautiful but charred swaths of the park, ever so slowly being reclaimed by mother nature's greenery. Here are some quick notes about the hikes we did:
  • Upper Yosemite Falls/Yosemite Point: The trail head is located in Yosemite Valley, near the entrance of Camp 4 (more on Camp 4 later). Hikers climb 2,700 feet over 3.6 miles to reach the top of Yosemite Falls. The trail is steep and rocky, and winds its way up the mountain affording excellent views of the waterfall, which is typically dry by late summer, but you can see where the sheer granite cliff has been weathered. For the second half of the hike, the trail leads through a valley and pops out at the lookout for Upper Yosemite Falls. Beyond the falls by another half mile and a few more feet of elevation is Yosemite point, which is well worth the extra climb. We were very lucky to have a clear day at Yosemite Point, despite raging forest fires billowing out smoke. Half Dome boldly yet humbly dominates the view from up there while ravens performed airborne acrobatics for us in the gusting winds. Bottom line: excellent but strenuous hike, 8.2 miles of rocky trail, do it anyway. 
  • John Muir Trail from Cathedral to Paradise Point: The Cathedral trail head is near the Tuolomne Meadows Visitor Center. We hiked the John Muir trail between these two points on our four day, three night backpacking trip; this stretch of the JMT was approximately 25 miles (excluding the spur to Half Dome) with about 3000 feet of total elevation loss - hooray for downhill! The trail winds through sprawling meadows, past towering granite peaks characteristic of the High Sierras, down into once green valleys blackened by wildfires from years past, near creeks and rivers that feed raging waterfalls, and past two well-established backpacker campgrounds. We opted to stay at the Sunrise backpacker's camp the first night, which is probably the nicest, most beautiful backcountry campground I've ever stayed at. Our second and third nights were spent in the Little Yosemite Valley, which offers an equally nice backpacker's campground; both have the requisite bear-proof lockers which also helps because bear canisters are heavy. Before traversing this or any long stretch of trail in Yosemite, double check water availability and plan accordingly as creeks, streams and lakes may be dry in this drought-ridden locale. 
  • Half Dome: This is probably the most popular long-distance hike in the park, so much so that permits are required. Obtaining a permit as part of a backcountry adventure is the easiest way to secure your turn at climbing up this iconic peak; otherwise, you can plan ahead and get reservations 6 months in advance, or hope to get lucky in the daily lottery. We began our Half Dome ascent from the Little Yosemite Valley, which shortened the otherwise 17-mile hike to a mere 7-mile round-trip hike, with about half the elevation. The shorter hike is still steep and strenuous (and in my opinion, scarier than Angel's Landing), but standing atop the dome is oh so rewarding. The last half-mile in particular requires sure footing and focus as hikers traverse steep granite steps, unforgiving switchbacks, and ascend the dome with the help of cables up an almost 45-degree-angled slope. I thought coming down was harder than going up, so we had no choice but to take a break and enjoy Hiker's Happy Hour. 

Finally, I have to tell you about Camp 4. This is Yosemite Valley's only first come, first served campground, and you MUST get in line early (think 6 o'clock am early) to secure a spot. There are approximately 36 campsites, and six people are assigned to each site - this is the fun part! Ryan and I got lucky at campsite thirteen and were camping alongside Colin, a recent college graduate bike-touring the US; Carla-Paz, a Torres del Paine tour guide from Chile; Sophie and Yann, year-long travelers, bike campers, and peanut butter lovers from France; and energetic, outgoing, mountain-climber Janika from Quebec. What a mix! Ryan deserves a prize for enduring a night of loud, whisky-fueled banter, entirely in French! (Side note: I speak French.) Do yourself a favor a stay at Camp 4. 

All in all, Yosemite was a great time, for lots a diverse reasons! We both feel so lucky that when we return to the Bay Area, this special place will be a weekend trip away. 

California's secret National Park

9/17/2015

 
By: Cristina 

Lassen Volcanic National Park is lightly visited compared to most of California's other national parks, making it feel like a bit of a secret, but that doesn't mean its any less mighty. Located in northern California, this park is situated at the southern end of the youthfully volcanic Cascade range, where the High Sierras begin. Appropriately, it boasts alpine lakes, ragged peaks, miles of trails, and several colorful geothermal features. It offers visitors a taste of more popular parks (think Yellowstone and Yosemite) but without the crowds, since even many native Californians are unaware of its existence. A small, peaceful park was just what we wanted, and we made the most of it!
Because our time in Lassen was limited, we carefully selected activities that would allow us to experience the park's diversity. So after arriving late the evening before, we woke up early to watch the sun rise over Helen Lake. The lake was perfectly still and a beautiful canvas for a beautiful sunrise show. Conveniently, the lake is also very near the trail head of the hike to Lassen Peak, the highest point in the park rising to an impressive 10,457 feet above sea level. The hike is short (5 miles round trip), but includes 2,000 feet of elevation gain. As you traverse through forest and rise above the tree-line, hikers gain sweeping views of the remnants of the 1915 volcanic eruption, including a giant lunar-like crater on the mountain's top. 

Also near Lassen Peak is the trail head to Bumpass Hell, a three-mile round trip tour of some of the parks most colorful and noisy geothermal features. I must be honest, after a month in Yellowstone I was healthily skeptical that Lassen's mud pots and steam vents would rise to the occasion. And while no, the features at this park do not rival the likes of Old Faithful or the West Thumb Geyser Basin, they do offer enough of a view into Earth's soul that left me wanting more. I just can't get enough of these volcanoes! 

As I mentioned above, it is a small park. We were only in Lassen for about a day but we felt that we were able to accomplish everything we wanted. So, we left early to get a head start on an otherwise long drive to Yosemite. Thank you, Lassen, for a great time, we will be back! And thank you, Ma & Pa or the last-minute roadside assistance - pizza, beer and a bed were much appreciated!

With the world's tallest trees

9/15/2015

 
By: Cristina

It is hard to believe that our six-month road trip has looped back around to California, but here we are at Redwood National Park (RNP). Our time at this park was brief, but we got an excellent feel for the lush forest, gentle yet giant redwood groves, and the dramatic Pacific coastline. 
Redwood National Park is intermingled with several California state parks. If you plan on visiting RNP, note that most campgrounds are located in the adjacent state parks and cost significantly more than the average NPS-run campground at approximately $35/night. There is, however, a free alternative, which is obtaining permits for backcountry camping, as we did, which not only saves some money, it affords a more intimate experience within the parks boundaries. 

If it is coastal camping you're looking for, we recommend spending a night at Flint Ridge campground. Lucky for us, this campground is set upon a sea cliff, and while you can't hear the waves crashing at night, you can hike down the steep trail and wander along the sprawling beach for hours in the company of other campers, surfers and sea birds. Along a similar trail you can visit Radar Station B-71, an old World War II radar station disguised as a farm. Now defunct, this "farm" housed radar equipment and small arsenal and was one of 22 radar stations on the Pacific Coast. 

A definite must-see at RNP is the Tall Trees Grove, home to the tallest trees in the world rising upwards of 350 feet in height. The world's tallest tree, Hyperion, lives in this grove, although its exact location is undisclosed to the public. To visit the Tall Trees Grove, visitors must obtain a free permit at the Hiouchi Information Center in the near the park's northern boundary. I strongly recommend visiting the Tall Trees Grove, here's why:

Tucked away from Highway 101 at the near-end of a winding dirt road, this grove offers a truly peaceful and quiet getaway. The three and a half mile loop trail weaves around a serene redwoods grove populated by trees so tall you cannot see the top of them! We extended our time in this tranquil space by camping at 44 Camp, along the intersecting Redwood Creed trail. Since we were staying the night, we had opportunities to see the trees at several different times of day. The best time to wander among these gentle giants is an hour or so before sunset. As the sun hangs low in the western sky, its brilliant rays reach through the towering trees and gently caress the forest floor creating a palatable glow. 

Wandering here is truly humbling. These trees rise regally above the earth patiently bestowing their wisdom on those who are willing to listen. On a personal note, the combination of the sun's twilight warmth, the slight 
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humidity in the air, and the sweet smell of bay leaves instantly transported me back in time to my grandma's garden. While unexpected, this was a welcomed and blissful bit of nostalgia. 

In addition to the Tall Trees Grove, I would also recommend driving the Newton B. Dury Scenic Parkway as an alternative route to Highway 101. It is beautiful and offers many opportunities to stop, wander, picnic and take it all in. 

While our visit to Redwoods may have been brief, its impression persists. This is definitely one park we will come back to. 

The towering majesty of Mount Rainier

9/2/2015

 
By: Cristina 

This is the third of three National Parks in Washington state. Located about two hours outside Seattle, it is a pleasant escape from the big city and a world away from Olympic. Mount Rainier National Park (MRNP) is quite literally a square-shaped swath of land around the towering and majestic Mt. Rainier, with the majority of activities available in the south-central Paradise region, or the north eastern Sunrise and White River regions. 
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Two activities that we seek out at the various parks are watching sunrise and sunset. At Mount Rainier, we set out out watch sunrise over Reflection Lakes in the Paradise region, and at (wait for it) Sunrise, in the northeast corner of the park. Our first attempt at sunrise over Reflection Lakes was foiled due to fog and drizzle (as a side note, this mountain makes its own weather so be prepared for quickly-changing conditions), but we persisted and saw a delightful sunrise a day later. Sunrise at Sunrise was equally impressive and this particular vantage point is high above the clouds, adding to the surreal scenery. For sunset I would recommend heading to the Community Building behind the Longmire Visitor's Center, or to the riverbed that parallels the White River campground. Both spots afford spectacular twilight shows of pale oranges and pinks as the sun bids us a good night. 
MRNP also offers an assortment of hikes ranging from easy strolls to hard-core ascents of the 14,409 foot summit traversing enormous glaciers and crevasses. We fall somewhere between these two skill-levels and had no trouble finding suitable and challenging hikes. Here's a recap of the hikes we did:
  • Reflection Lakes Loop: This five-mile loop winds around two, small lakes, up through the forest, and across fields and fields of wild blueberry bushes! The elevation gain was minimal (no hiking poles needed), and we are sure glad we went early because this hike is a popular one. The larger of the two lakes supports a mirror-like reflection of Mount Rainier, which is stunning at sunrise! Our time on this trail flew by, partly because the scenery was tranquil, and partly because our efforts were continuously rewarded with a fresh blueberry snack. Bon appetit!
  • Comet Falls: This hike is much steeper than Reflection Lakes, and gains 900 feet in 1.9 miles - bring your poles. The trail winds past Christine Falls and hikes up through blueberry, huckleberry, and salmonberry bushes to the base of Comet Falls, names as such because the tail of this 320-foot cascade resembles a comet. The trail continues on to several backcountry campsites, but we were satisfied with the first stop. 
  • Skyline trail:  This 5.5-mile trail loops up and around the base of Mount Rainier, for an up-close view of the colossus. Hiker's plan accordingly, this trail is extremely popular, as is the parking lot, so you must arrive by 7am! As the trail ascends, hikers traverse talus piles and wild-flower-filled meadows and have the option of stopping at look-outs that highlight other scraggly peaks in the young Cascade Range - on a clear day you can see Mt. Hood! At the trail's zenith, hikers are at a mere 7,000-feet, only about half-way up this mountain (from sea level), and the peak looms overhead reminding viewers that nature's majesty is to be respected and admired. 
  • Glacier Basin/Emmons Glacier Lookout: Glacier basin takes hikers to, you guessed it, a glacier basin below towering Mount Rainier. While on this hike, we passed by the newly repaired Emmons Glacier lookout spur and were treated to a magnificent view of the terminus of Emmons Glacier. At this glacier's end, the ice is carved out by a raging, sub-glacial river, whose cave-like outlet must be at least the height of a thirty-story building. Needless to say, the view here is exquisite, so much so that we opted to conclude our hike shortly thereafter.
  • Burroughs Hike: The map will tell you that there are only two burroughs; there are three burroughs and you must hike them all. The trail originates at the Sunrise visitors center and traverses giant mounts of talus up and up, over the first two burroughs which offer panoramic views of the park and seemingly endless rows of mountains undulating over the countryside. The third burrough (approximately five miles from the trail head) concludes in front of Mount Rainier and rewards hikers with views not just of the mountain, but of nearly half a dozen monstrous glaciers! While we were there, we witnesses a helicopter training exercise and several instances of glaciers calving (think a glacier avalanche). What a site! 

Crater Lake: Just not enough hiking

9/2/2015

 
By: Ryan

The truth is we didn't have that great a time in Crater Lake National Park. For sure, one big reason was that a group of wildfires in the region created a haze of smoke that obscured many of the best views. But also, the hiking just isn't that great, and hiking is how we like to best experience the parks.

The two main activities in Crater seem to be a) the drive around the crater rim, and b) taking a boat tour of the lake. Neither of these is really for us. First, we like to get out of the car and experience our parks up close and personal by hiking, as noted above. Second, organized tours (especially those that you have to pay $30 or more for) are rarely better than doing something on our own.

So we did a few hikes (the 6.5 mile hike to Crater Peak, which was 'meh' with no views of the lake, and the 2 mile hike to Discovery Point along the crater rim, which was nice but not spectacular). There really isn't much other hiking, except for the Pacific Crest Trail, which runs through the park. 

Anyways, Crater Lake NP is beautiful and the water truly is a magnificent deep blue, but we just weren't enamored with it like we have been with the other parks of the Pacific Northwest like Olympic and Mt. Rainier.

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