By: Ryan Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks were to be the last stops on our road trip. Sadly, due to the Rough Fire, Kings Canyon had been evacuated, so we could not even set foot in the park, but we did still spend some time in Sequoia. Sequoia is home to the world's largest tree by volume, General Sherman, so of course that was on the top of our to-do list. We had also wanted to do some more hiking, but the Rough Fire foiled those plans again, as the air quality was rated as unhealthy for strenuous activity in most part of the park. So we kept our time in Sequoia short and did the quick hike to the big tree early on before the smoke picked up. This also meant that we got some quiet time in the grove of Giant Sequoias before the tour buses started arriving. General Sherman is not nearly the tallest tree in the world. That's Hyperion at 379 feet in Redwoods NP, where we were just a few weeks ago. It's also not the oldest in the world. That's a 5000 year old bristlecone pine in Inyo National Forest that we haven't seen yet, so we'll just have to put it on our list. Still, at 275 feet tall, 103 feet circumference at the base, and more than 2300 years old, General Sherman is a sight to behold. Even it's largest branch, at nearly 7 feet in diameter (wider than most trees at their base) is impressive. So we spent a while taking photos and appreciating the grandeur of GS before retreating from the effects of the fire and heading back for home. And just like that our six months on the road visiting national parks came to a close! Stay tuned for more on overall thoughts and lessons learned later. |
By: Cristina Growing up on the West Coast meant a lot of things, including trips to Yosemite. This holds true for both Ryan and myself, although Ryan has frequented this park more, and more recently. I had not been to Yosemite in about 20 years, and I have to admit that, while I was excited to come back to here I was unsure that it would measure up to the likes of Glacier and Olympic. I was so wrong! Yosemite National Park is the High Sierras at their best (minus a certain alpine lake named Tahoe, but that's a different story). The dramatic yet iconic scenery found here tells a visual tale of this region's glacial and volcanic past, and we set out to discover as much as possible in our week-long stay!
Finally, I have to tell you about Camp 4. This is Yosemite Valley's only first come, first served campground, and you MUST get in line early (think 6 o'clock am early) to secure a spot. There are approximately 36 campsites, and six people are assigned to each site - this is the fun part! Ryan and I got lucky at campsite thirteen and were camping alongside Colin, a recent college graduate bike-touring the US; Carla-Paz, a Torres del Paine tour guide from Chile; Sophie and Yann, year-long travelers, bike campers, and peanut butter lovers from France; and energetic, outgoing, mountain-climber Janika from Quebec. What a mix! Ryan deserves a prize for enduring a night of loud, whisky-fueled banter, entirely in French! (Side note: I speak French.) Do yourself a favor a stay at Camp 4. All in all, Yosemite was a great time, for lots a diverse reasons! We both feel so lucky that when we return to the Bay Area, this special place will be a weekend trip away. By: Cristina Lassen Volcanic National Park is lightly visited compared to most of California's other national parks, making it feel like a bit of a secret, but that doesn't mean its any less mighty. Located in northern California, this park is situated at the southern end of the youthfully volcanic Cascade range, where the High Sierras begin. Appropriately, it boasts alpine lakes, ragged peaks, miles of trails, and several colorful geothermal features. It offers visitors a taste of more popular parks (think Yellowstone and Yosemite) but without the crowds, since even many native Californians are unaware of its existence. A small, peaceful park was just what we wanted, and we made the most of it! Because our time in Lassen was limited, we carefully selected activities that would allow us to experience the park's diversity. So after arriving late the evening before, we woke up early to watch the sun rise over Helen Lake. The lake was perfectly still and a beautiful canvas for a beautiful sunrise show. Conveniently, the lake is also very near the trail head of the hike to Lassen Peak, the highest point in the park rising to an impressive 10,457 feet above sea level. The hike is short (5 miles round trip), but includes 2,000 feet of elevation gain. As you traverse through forest and rise above the tree-line, hikers gain sweeping views of the remnants of the 1915 volcanic eruption, including a giant lunar-like crater on the mountain's top.
Also near Lassen Peak is the trail head to Bumpass Hell, a three-mile round trip tour of some of the parks most colorful and noisy geothermal features. I must be honest, after a month in Yellowstone I was healthily skeptical that Lassen's mud pots and steam vents would rise to the occasion. And while no, the features at this park do not rival the likes of Old Faithful or the West Thumb Geyser Basin, they do offer enough of a view into Earth's soul that left me wanting more. I just can't get enough of these volcanoes! As I mentioned above, it is a small park. We were only in Lassen for about a day but we felt that we were able to accomplish everything we wanted. So, we left early to get a head start on an otherwise long drive to Yosemite. Thank you, Lassen, for a great time, we will be back! And thank you, Ma & Pa or the last-minute roadside assistance - pizza, beer and a bed were much appreciated! By: Cristina It is hard to believe that our six-month road trip has looped back around to California, but here we are at Redwood National Park (RNP). Our time at this park was brief, but we got an excellent feel for the lush forest, gentle yet giant redwood groves, and the dramatic Pacific coastline.
humidity in the air, and the sweet smell of bay leaves instantly transported me back in time to my grandma's garden. While unexpected, this was a welcomed and blissful bit of nostalgia.
In addition to the Tall Trees Grove, I would also recommend driving the Newton B. Dury Scenic Parkway as an alternative route to Highway 101. It is beautiful and offers many opportunities to stop, wander, picnic and take it all in. While our visit to Redwoods may have been brief, its impression persists. This is definitely one park we will come back to. By: Cristina This is the third of three National Parks in Washington state. Located about two hours outside Seattle, it is a pleasant escape from the big city and a world away from Olympic. Mount Rainier National Park (MRNP) is quite literally a square-shaped swath of land around the towering and majestic Mt. Rainier, with the majority of activities available in the south-central Paradise region, or the north eastern Sunrise and White River regions. Two activities that we seek out at the various parks are watching sunrise and sunset. At Mount Rainier, we set out out watch sunrise over Reflection Lakes in the Paradise region, and at (wait for it) Sunrise, in the northeast corner of the park. Our first attempt at sunrise over Reflection Lakes was foiled due to fog and drizzle (as a side note, this mountain makes its own weather so be prepared for quickly-changing conditions), but we persisted and saw a delightful sunrise a day later. Sunrise at Sunrise was equally impressive and this particular vantage point is high above the clouds, adding to the surreal scenery. For sunset I would recommend heading to the Community Building behind the Longmire Visitor's Center, or to the riverbed that parallels the White River campground. Both spots afford spectacular twilight shows of pale oranges and pinks as the sun bids us a good night. MRNP also offers an assortment of hikes ranging from easy strolls to hard-core ascents of the 14,409 foot summit traversing enormous glaciers and crevasses. We fall somewhere between these two skill-levels and had no trouble finding suitable and challenging hikes. Here's a recap of the hikes we did:
By: Ryan
The truth is we didn't have that great a time in Crater Lake National Park. For sure, one big reason was that a group of wildfires in the region created a haze of smoke that obscured many of the best views. But also, the hiking just isn't that great, and hiking is how we like to best experience the parks. The two main activities in Crater seem to be a) the drive around the crater rim, and b) taking a boat tour of the lake. Neither of these is really for us. First, we like to get out of the car and experience our parks up close and personal by hiking, as noted above. Second, organized tours (especially those that you have to pay $30 or more for) are rarely better than doing something on our own. So we did a few hikes (the 6.5 mile hike to Crater Peak, which was 'meh' with no views of the lake, and the 2 mile hike to Discovery Point along the crater rim, which was nice but not spectacular). There really isn't much other hiking, except for the Pacific Crest Trail, which runs through the park. Anyways, Crater Lake NP is beautiful and the water truly is a magnificent deep blue, but we just weren't enamored with it like we have been with the other parks of the Pacific Northwest like Olympic and Mt. Rainier. By: Cristina Before this trip, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (HVNP) was one of the few national parks I had visited. Although I had come to HVNP many times before, I had never hiked here and there were parts of the park I literally had not seen in twenty years. Venturing here with Ryan felt, in some respects, both like a welcomed homecoming and an opportunity to get to know this park, and the Big Island a little better. Beginning in the wee hours of the morning, our visit to HVNP started at Hallema'uma'u Crater, nestled inside the Kilauea caldera. Here we were greeted by the gentle twinkle of stars above and the fiery red glow of Pele (Hawaiian Goddess of Fire) churning up the Earth's soul below. Wow. I was and still am at a loss for words. This was probably the most awe-inspiring displays of nature's majestic power to create and destroy that I have ever seen. I highly recommend sacrificing a few hours of sleep to see this pre-dawn display. We arrived at the caldera about 20 minutes before daybreak and stayed for an equally dramatic display of night slipping into day. It was simply stunning. With time and cool morning temperatures on our side, we set out to hike. First we walked the Thurston Lava Tube, an approximately half-mile wander through forest and, you guessed it, a lava tube. Lava tubes are created when an outer layer of lava cools and insulates interior lava flows. This particular tube has been excavated and illuminated thus giving visitors views of stalactites and subterranean dwellers that gave me the heebie jeebies. Definitely visit Thurston, it is the closest most people get to the innards of a volcano.
Next we hiked the Kilauea Iki trail. This four-mile loop descends through lush rain forest into a caldera once filled with liquid hot magma from the 1959 lava flow. The lava has since cooled and traversing this feels like a tour of Dante's aftermath as hikers pass scalded, dead trees, a dormant cinder cone, and piles and piles of lava rock including small steam vents housing their own miniature gardens. But wait, the landscape is littered with young trees sprouting vibrantly red blossoms as if they are paying tribute to their once molten bed, while continuing the cycle of life. The stretch through the cooled caldera is exposed, so bring a hat lest you emerge on the other side with a snazzy sunglasses tan, aka "raccoon face" like yours truly. One popular activity in the park is driving Chain of Craters Road, which passes through several different lava flows from over the generations, and is accented by multiple, shorter hikes. We stopped to hike Mauna Ulu, which in Hawaiian means "growing mountain." The trail is marked by cairns, or ahu in Hawaiian, and winds through terrain boasting lava formations so bizarre it feels like a volcanic Dali painting. The trail includes a spur to the mountain's official lookout and enables hikers to climb up the mountain itself and peer into its interior crater. Other popular activities in the park include the Devastation Trail and Crater Rim Drive. These, unfortunately were closed during our visit due to the high levels of sulfur dioxide resultant from the ever bubbling volcano. Additionally, the famous Kilauea lava flow has delighted visitors near and far with its endless spewing into the Pacific Ocean; this however has since waned and was not on display during our visit. Similarly, the park's two campgrounds (Namakanipaio and Kulanaokuaiki) were closed during our visit due to rain-heavy tropical depression Hilda, who passed to the south of Hawaii Island. HVNP was wild and beautiful, as usual, and a fulfilling part of our time in Hawaii, and I feel privileged to have climbed deeper and explored further than ever before. But the hiking adventures did not stop there. If (and when) you come to the Big Island, there a few other trails I would recommend hiking to sample fully the diversity and beauty this magical place has to offer. And, I am certain that there are many more to explore! Waipi'o Valley is a slice of Eden with cultural and historical significance in Hawaii. Kings once lived here and visitors must take care to respect it and its modern-day inhabitants. Hiking this valley begins with a steep decent from the parking lot - be prepared for an intense climb out, but it is worth every step! Once in the valley, you can turn left and wander along the county road for a view of idyllic Hi'ilawe Falls. To the right of the access road is a path that leads to a sprawling, mile-long black sand beach. The trail picks up on the opposite side of the valley and continues up and over the sheer wall for a longer, more challenging hike, or an overnight in the adjacent Waimanu Valley. Pololu Valley attracts swarms of tourists to the lookout and the trail, so plan accordingly. The hike into the valley is just under one and one-half miles, but hikers can extend their visit by walking up the black sand beach (be on the lookout for washed-up jellyfish) and exploring the forest on the valley floor. We wandered up the shoreline dodging waves, photographing rock sculptures, and searching for the well-camouflaged rope swings - we found them! Thank you to Ivan, my CouchSurfing host for sharing this secret with me many moons ago. What fun! Papakolea (Green Sand) Beach is a hike that I have wanted to do for as long as I can remember! This is a six-mile round trip hike that follows a higgledy piggledy network of dirt roads that lead to the beach so choose your own adventure, you'll get there eventually. The hike is easy, but completely exposed so bring water, gatorade and, if you're like Ryan and me, beer; Green Sand Beach was the perfect, surreal setting for a recent Hiker's Happy Hour as we perched on the Dr. Seuss-like rock formations sheltering this geological masterpiece surrounded by strikingly turquoise waters of the Pacific ocean. Also, this hike is very near the southernmost point in the United States. If all of that hiking has made you thirsty and hungry, check out the Big Island Brewhaus & Tako Taqueria in whimsical Waimea. It is a burrito joint and a brewery (brilliant) and you must try the Starshine Gingerbier. If you're in Hilo, visit the Mehana/Hawaii Nui Brewing Company. The tasting room is open to the public and offers free samples of its dozen-or-so resident brews. It is definitely worth stopping by, and I particularly liked the Volcano Red Ale. The popular Kona Brewing Company, located in Kailua-Kona has an extensive menu of food and beers infused with local flavors. Specifically, we recommend trying the Wailua Wheat, Lemongrass Luau and/or the Pipeline Porter to wash down a slice of sweet potato haupia pie. Okole maluna! As you may have guessed, I love the Big Island. Our time here was short, but it was full of exploration and discovery as we hiked, climbed and relaxed in the company of serene tropical valleys, scraggly lava rocks, and the Pacific Ocean's rhythmic tide - we even got to swim with sea turtles! I feel so lucky to have visited this special place with Ryan. We look forward to many more adventures hiking farther, climbing higher, and breathing deeper on this unique island.
Before we even got to the mountain top, we drove the road to Hana, considered by many to be one of the most scenic drives in the world. While it’s only a few dozen miles, it takes about 3 hours to drive from end to end because the two-way road goes down to one lane over more than 50 decades-old bridges, at which point the two lanes of traffic again and again have to negotiate right of way. This is not even to mention the more than 600 hairpin curves that wind in out of valleys hundreds of feet above the Pacific. The road to Hana is not for the faint of heart… there are some treacherous stretches and it's takes some patience, but the drive offers unparalleled views of Maui’s rugged coastline! And, most of all, it is the primary route into Kipahulu, the remote Western side of Haleakala NP. There’s not that much to do on this side of the park, but the main attraction is pretty great - the 5ish mile hike to the Pools at Ohe’o and the 400 ft Waimoku Falls is quintessential tropical Hawaii! Beautiful cascading waterfalls, lush bamboo forests, and the Pacific Ocean would make the long drive worth it even if the Road to Hana wasn’t already so great as to justify itself.
Our few days on Maui were such a treat, and thanks to free camping in both sections of Haleakala National Park, it’s easy to see Maui on a tight budget! P.S. And as if all that wasn’t enough, while we were on Maui, we also had the good fortune to find ourselves at the Maui Brewing Company drinking the Imperial Coconut Porter. Do yourself a favor and do the same - it’s to die for! By: Cristina Olympic National Park (ONP) was one of the parks I was most excited for. The moment I laid eyes on the guidebook's photos, the park's careful seduction had begun. The lure of the Enchanted Valley and its moss-coated, temperate rain forests, and the rhythmic pulsing of each wave of the Pacific Ocean had me looking forward to this park before our journey had even begun. Olympic truly boasts something for everyone - from climbs to scraggly mountain vistas and glaciers, sweeping views of Mount Olympus, hikes through old-growth, temperate rain forests among moss-cloaked trees much older than the Declaration of Independence, and vast white-to-black sand beaches punctuated by sea stacks and rocky tide pools reminding us of this region's violent volcanic heritage. During our ten-day stint, we were fortunate to sample the many flavors of this park along with plenty of sweet, local beer, beach-side campfire tacos, and the company of friends old and new! Thank you, Ben, for joining us from Washington, DC, and William, for your continued company and for introducing us to Scot, Lydia and Matt - what a delight! Joined by our friend from DC, Ben, we began our Olympic exploration with a three-mile (round trip) hike to Hurricane Ridge, named for its high winds and notoriously less-than-perfect weather. After a steep yet manageable climb the trail's terminus rewards hikers with views of Mount Olympus and surrounding ridges, on a clear day. When we arrived, the massive mountain lay shrouded in fog while clouds of practically every texture hung low between mountain ridges and valleys; the views were still breathtaking and well worth the effort. I highly recommend this hike.
If its temperate rain forest you seek, check out the Ancient Groves nature walk, Sol Duc Falls, the Hoh River Trail and/or Enchanted Valley. We did all four!
For the beach goers (myself very much included), I recommend the following: move to the Olympic peninsula, set up a tent on one of the park's many backcountry beaches, and live happily ever after. Just kidding, I think. While at ONP, we enjoyed our fair share of the Pacific Ocean, including two backcountry trips to Rialto and Shi Shi Beaches, a day hike along Third Beach and camping at Kalaloch and South Beach.
As I mentioned, Olympic lived up to my very high expectations. I could spend many more days there and I joked about wanted to sleep on the beach for the next 60 years! We more than enjoyed our time at this park, and feel so fortunate not just to have experienced so much natural beauty and diversity, but to have shared it with our friends Ben and William. Leaving Olympic was difficult, especially after being lulled to sleep by the gentle and consistent crashing of the Pacific, but the show must go on! I can confidently say that we will return. By: Cristina North Cascades is one of the least-visited national parks. This is a stark contrast from the likes of Glacier and Yellowstone, but nonetheless a welcomed opportunity to relax and let go of traffic woes or fears of full campgrounds. This park is quiet yet abuzz with birds, rushing rivers, the sound of ice cascading from mountain cliffs, and a hydroelectric power plant. Wait, a what? This park is bisected by the Ross Lake National Recreational Area (and is organized into North and South units), which also includes three dams and the aforementioned power plant. Ironically, some of the parks scenic destinations such as Diablo Lake are man-made, and the lake only exists because the Skagit river was dammed decades ago. The road through the park winds through a catacomb-like gorge, affording visitors sweeping views of the dams, stunningly blue glacial lakes, and offensively large transmission lines. It is a bizarre juxtaposition of man and nature, that I will further detail, below.
I don't want to sound like too much of a "Debbie Downer," the park was quite lovely, so let me share the highlights:
Overall, we would happily revisit North Cascades. There is a lot of beautiful territory to explore and if it is even half as beautiful as Cascade Pass, we (or any visitor) is in for a treat! We are also delighted to be back on the West Coast, and I can't believe we have arrived at this point in our journey. But, there is much more to explore, more beauty to take in, and many more miles ahead! Next up, Olympic National Park and the Pacific Ocean! |
About UsRyan and Cristina's travel blog, detailing our adventures in US National Parks and overseas in New Zealand and SE Asia. Find our photos here:
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